Friday, November 30, 2012

Foundation Repair

The principal function of a foundation of a home is to transfer the weight of a structure to its underlying soil and rocks. One of the factors that bring about the need for foundation repairs is improper foundation settling. Foundation settlement can devalue structures and also render them unsafe. Building on expansive clay, compressive or improperly contracted fill soils and improper maintenance in and around foundations are some of the major reasons of improper foundation settling. Another reason for improper foundation settlement is undetected or unsuspected air pockets in the ground below the area of construction. These may cave in and cause the integrity of the foundation to be compromised.

General symptoms of a structure needing foundation repairs are bulging or cracked walls and doors that don't close properly. Building on expansive soils is the main culprit for foundation settlement. When only one part of the foundation either settles or heaves, cracks are formed in the foundation. The exterior warning signs of improper floor settling are rotation of walls, displaced moldings, cracked bricks and foundation and separation around doors and windows from the walls. Interior warning signs of improper floor settling are cracks on the floor, sheet rock and misalignment in doors and windows.

There are many ways of doing foundation repair. Cement, stone, steel or wood were used extensively in past techniques. They would be forced into the ground in a bid to salvage the strength of these foundations. However, this type of repair work has been known to be futile. Two of the most successful ways of foundation repairs are slab jacking and the Piering method. Piering is also known as hydraulic jacking.

Foundation Repair

Slab jacking is the process of adding grout beneath a slab or beam. This produces a lifting force and restores the said beam or slab to almost its original elevation and adds to its strength. Care should be taken that the amount of sand should be perfect while adding grout.

During Piering, steel posts are driven through unstable soil. Hydraulic jacks are used to stabilize concrete slabs which are weakened due to the changes taking place in the underlying soil. Steel beams are used in the Piering method because concrete has great compressive strength. Though Piers are able to transfer huge downward loads without the help of reinforcing steel, steel is used in the piers for prevention of the pier from being pulled apart or sheared by forces of the expansive soils. The repairs normally take 21 to 30 days, however this time frame can vary depending on soil conditions and weather delays.

Foundation Repair
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Foundation Repairs [http://www.i-foundationrepair.com] provides detailed information about foundation repair, do-it-yourself foundation repair, foundation leak repair, and more. Foundation Repairs is affiliated with Roof Shingles.

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Monday, November 26, 2012

Limestone Gravel is Good For More Than Just Driveways

Limestone is a versatile aggregate material that can be used for many different projects, but the average homeowner is probably most familiar with its use as filler for driveways. The small white gravel stones are useful for traction in driveways and parking lots, but they are also helpful in drainage and back fill projects, as well.

Especially where basement waterproofing and drain repair jobs are concerned, limestone gravel is an excellent material for use in filling excavated holes and trenches. Limestone has excellent drainage properties, which means that water can easily filter through the material. When footer drains are replaced around the foundation of a home, back filling with limestone gravel allows rainwater to filter down to the perforated pipes and flow away from the home.

Limestone is generally harvested from quarries and crushed to different sizes depending upon needs. In addition to the most common smaller size of gravel, larger pieces are also available for other construction projects. And limestone screenings, which are a fine, powder-like material used for things like providing stability between patio stones, are another commonly used limestone aggregate material.

Limestone Gravel is Good For More Than Just Driveways

If you are interested in using an aggregate material to fill in your driveway, then gravel might not be your best choice. Slag, another material that is similar to limestone, is less expensive and usually works just as well in driveways. Slag is not a stone, however, but rather a byproduct of steel production that is lighter and cheaper to purchase.

Most landscaping material providers will have the ability to offer you both slag and limestone gravel. Be sure to talk to a professional about what you need the material for, how much area you need to cover, and whether you should purchase slag or limestone.

Limestone Gravel is Good For More Than Just Driveways
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Thursday, November 22, 2012

Pink Ribbon Merchandise by the Komen Foundation

The pink ribbon campaign is a unifying bond between consumers and manufactures of some of the most popular products in stores for the support of the Susan G, Komen foundation for the cure. The campaign places the widely recognized pink ribbon logo on the labels, tags and stickers of many products sold in the United States and other countries. The ribbon helps to raise consumer consciousness about the issue of breast cancer while at the same providing people an easy way to help. When bought, pink ribbon merchandise allows the manufacturer or distributor to make a small donation - a portion of the proceeds of the sale - to the foundation.

The purpose behind the Komen foundation is to increase awareness and ensure that those who have lost their battles are remembered and that their sacrifice was not in vain, and that those who have survived are able to live in dignity and respect. Most importantly the foundation works to help those who are in the process of fighting breast cancer by giving them support and resources as well as funding for research.

Pink ribbon merchandise is a main form of funding for the foundation. The license of the pink ribbon logo to use on the labels and tags of items sold allows the foundation to not only increase its fund raising capacity but to also keep the idea of the struggle alive in consumers' minds on a regular basis. The manufacturers who place the logo on their products.

Pink Ribbon Merchandise by the Komen Foundation

Most of the items that are licenses as pink ribbon items are things that are of use or interest to women. These items include food products, health and beauty items and women's wear. Of course this is not the rule, in fact in recent years the campaign has striven to add more men centered items to the list or products in an effort to increase awareness and support among males about an issue which affect the women whom they care about in their lives.

Pink ribbon products are selected not only for their popularity but also for the quality of the merchandise. The foundation tries hard to make sure that the items which are licensed and the companies that are a part of the campaign are of the highest caliber. There are very specific guidelines that must be met in order to have the logo places on a product.

The proceeds from pink ribbon merchandise sales help support the Komen foundation and the efforts that they make toward finding a cure for this condition which affects millions of women worldwide and hundreds of millions more who care about those women. The funding helps to provide research opportunities, support for patient and survivors, memorials for those who have been lost and rally's & events to raise awareness and garner more support.

The next time that you see an item in the store which bears the pink ribbon logo, take a moment to think about the work being done by the Komen foundation. Look at the product and if it will meet your needs as well as a similar product then please consider purchasing the pink ribbon merchandise. The proceeds help to benefit a worthy and world changing cause. Together we can all do our part, together we can stop the pain and suffering, together we can end the deaths, and together we can find the cure.

Pink Ribbon Merchandise by the Komen Foundation
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The proceeds from pink ribbon merchandise [http://www.pinkribbonmerchandise.org] go to support breast cancer research and breast cancer awareness [http://www.pinkribbonmerchandise.org].

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Monday, November 19, 2012

7 Signs You May Have Problems With Your Concrete Slab Foundation

­­If you own a home with a slab foundation in an area with heavy clay soils, there are certain things you should keep an eye on with regard to foundation movement. Here are a few signs that something is going wrong.

1. Doors and windows don't close properly.This can be one of the first signs that something weird is going on with your concrete slab foundation. Doors and windows that used to open and close with ease have now become more difficult and noisy to operate.

2. Sloped Floors.

7 Signs You May Have Problems With Your Concrete Slab Foundation

When things are dropped on the floor, they tend to roll down to the same spot. (Even Grandma.)

3. Cracks inside the house often near door jams and window frames.

The thing to watch for is a diagonal crack, often extending from the corner of a door or window frame. This means the framing is being twisted by foundation movement.

4. Nails popping out of drywall.

Could this also be caused by a heavy wind storm. Yes, but you would notice that right away. If over time you are seeing nail heads popping through the skin of the drywall, it could be an indication of a heaving or settling slab foundation.

5. Cracks in the walls outside.

Again, look for diagonal cracks, especially in brickwork. If the width of the cracks expand over time it's another sign of foundation problems.

6. Sections of brick or siding separating from the framing.

This is where vertical cracks come in to play. Do you see separation between sections of siding or where brick and framing meet. The vertical crack may be wider at the top than at the bottom or vice versa. Such cracks are often a sign of movement in the foundation.

7. Leaning chimney.

If the chimney is no longer square with the rest of the house or has the telltale diagonal cracks, this is another sign of foundation movement. (Unless you think maybe Santa caused the damage last year.)

If you have two or more of these signs of foundation problems, it's a good idea to take action before things get worse. One of the best things you can do is to hire an independent professional structural engineer with residential foundation experience to perform an inspection. One that has no financial ties whatsoever to any foundation repair companies. That way you are far more likely to get an unbiased opinion on the condition of your concrete slab foundation.

7 Signs You May Have Problems With Your Concrete Slab Foundation
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Bill Pryce is a Journalism and Mass Communications graduate of New Mexico State University and writes on various topics. Bill's websites include http://www.repairfoundation.net

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Thursday, November 15, 2012

Protect Your Home With FEMA Compliant Flood Vents

It May Be A Lot Easier Than You Think

Would you like to understand the FEMA flood vent regulations that apply to your home? And reduce your flood insurance premiums by a sizable amount? This document makes the regulations easy to understand, points out the benefits of installing flood vents, and will help you decide what kind of vents to install.

Properly positioned and installed flood vents in your home's foundation walls will not only help you protect your investment, they can help you save money. And, despite what you may have heard, the regulations governing their type and placement are easy to understand.

Protect Your Home With FEMA Compliant Flood Vents

These regulations were stipulated by the National Flood Insurance Program (NFIP), a program of the Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA).

Requirements: the Basics

1 - Openings must be installed in foundation walls so that water can flow, unimpeded, in and out of the crawl space without damaging the walls' integrity. The regulation is easy to remember: one square inch of opening in the foundation wall for every square foot of the area of your house. For example, a 2,000-square-foot crawl space would need 2,000 square inches of opening. The number of flood vents you need to install depends on the size and type of vent you buy. (More on that later.)

2 - Each enclosed area must have a minimum of two openings. If there are multiple enclosed areas within the foundation walls, each area must have at least two openings in its exterior walls.

3 - Flood vents must be below flood level to work. The bottom of each opening must be no more than 1 foot above whichever of these is higher: the interior or exterior grade immediately under the opening.

4 - Any screens, grates, grilles, fixed louvers, or other covers or devices you install must not block or hinder the automatic flow of floodwater into and out of the enclosed area.

Why Are Flood Vents Required?

The purpose of flood vents (also called "flood gates" or "flood ports") is to reduce structural damage from flooding. These permanent openings accomplish this objective by allowing water to pass into or out of a building's exterior foundation walls.

Why is that so important? In a flood situation, if the water pressure inside and outside your home can't equalize rapidly enough, the windows and doors could blow out. In addition, this pressure can compromise the foundation and make your home unsafe to live in. Studies have shown that houses with proper openings survive a flood; homes without such vents collapse.

Who Needs Flood Vents?

According to its website, the NFIP "requires flood vents for residential basements, crawl spaces, garages, and other enclosed structures that are below the Base Flood Elevation (BFE) in Special Flood Hazard Areas." BFE is the height of the base flood, usually in feet, in relation to the National Geodetic Vertical Datum of 1929 or other datum as specified.

If your home isn't mortgaged, you aren't required by FEMA/NFIP regulations to have flood insurance or flood vents. However, flood insurance is advisable to protect your investment. And foundation flood vents are still a wise move to ensure that floodwater does not structurally damage your home.

How Cost Savings Add Up

Properly installed and situated flood vents can pay for themselves very quickly. They allow you to save in two ways. The annual reduction on your flood insurance premiums can be considerable. Secondly, should floodwater rise to your home, flood vents can reduce the risk of structural damage, which can be very costly to repair.

Which Type of Flood Vent Should You Install?

There are two types of flood vents on the market: non-engineered and engineered. Engineered vents have been designed in such a way that they provide a more efficient flood relief system, and thus fewer vents will need to be installed.

The opening size of the non-engineered flood vent is calculated by multiplying the width times the height of the opening. The opening size of the engineered flood vent is calculated using a mathematical formula that takes into account certain coefficients, net area and opening shapes. This formula calculation must be certified by a professional engineer. The main difference between the two types of flood vents is that fewer of the engineered flood vents are required to meet NFIP requirements. For example, a non-engineered 8" x 16" vent is rated at 128 square inches while an engineered 8" x 16" is rated at 200 square inches.

Other design and performance criteria for engineered openings are specified by the American Society of Civil Engineers:

1 - Engineered openings are to perform such that the difference between the exterior and interior water levels shall not exceed 1 foot during base flood conditions.

2 - Engineered openings are to be not less than 3 inches in any direction in the plane of the wall. This requirement applies to the hole in the wall, excluding any screen, grate, grille, louvers, or devices that may be placed in or over the opening. The 3-inch opening requirement applies to the hole in the wall; not the space between the grates, grilles or louvers.

In a Nutshell: Numbers to Remember

FEMA's flood insurance requirements boil down to this:

1 - One square inch of opening in a foundation wall per square foot of house.

2 - Vents must be less than 12 inches above the ground.

3 - Two vents per enclosed area, on different exterior walls.

That's it. Make sure you have the appropriate flood vents installed -- or do it yourself -- then call your flood insurance company to get a reduction in your premiums. You'll also enjoy the peace of mind of knowing that you're not only compliant, you're safer.

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William G. Sykes is an inventor, product designer, member of the International Code Council, engineer and patent attorney. He specializes in crawl space and foundation protection products for flood protection, ventilation and encapsulation (flood vents, air vents, doors and fans). Learn more about crawl space and foundation protection and how to save money on your flood insurance premiums by visiting our website

http://WWW.crawlspacedoors.com

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Monday, November 12, 2012

Foundation Wall Cracks, Cause, Effect and Solution

There are no perfect houses and that would include its foundation. Whether you have a new home or one that's a hundred years old, house foundations crack. Houses shift and settle after construction. Houses will have cracks in either the cosmetic finishes or structural components. Most of these cracks have no structural significance. The common types of cracks in foundation walls will include;

Vertical (or near vertical) cracks; Just because a wall has cracked doesn't mean that it has failed or that corrective action is required. If the crack is narrow (1/8 inch or less), is nearly vertical, has no lateral separation between the adjacent portions of the wall, and no water is leaking through the crack, no action generally is required. This is a shrinkage crack and occurs as moisture in the wall evaporates causing the wall to shrink into the voids created by the escaping water. This type of crack is controlled, or minimized but not eliminated by, using horizontal reinforcement steel, which helps distribute the stresses in the wall. If horizontal steel is present, you are more likely to get several very small cracks instead of one or two much wider cracks. Another method of limiting shrinkage cracks is to control the amount of water used in the concrete mix.

Reentrant Cracks; Whenever a concrete element has a sharp angle, there is a concentration of stress. This almost always results in a crack called a reentrant crack that emanates from the inside corner. It may be vertical, horizontal, or diagonal as it exits the corner. This phenomenon exists in nearly all materials. Round openings can dissipate the stress but this is not practical in concrete wall construction. The typical remedy to reduce this type of crack is the placement of steel reinforcement in the corners. It will not eliminate these crack but keep they tight and controlled.

Foundation Wall Cracks, Cause, Effect and Solution

Horizontal cracks; Horizontal cracks require greater scrutiny. Most residential foundation walls are designed to span from the footing or floor slab to the connection of the floor structure above. An 8-inch concrete wall in normal soil conditions usually is strong enough to withstand the forces exerted on the wall with no vertical reinforcement. Exceptions include areas with high ground water conditions or in expansive soil conditions. If there is vertical reinforcement in the wall, a horizontal crack is probably not a concern. An expert should be consulted when a horizontal crack appears to evaluate whether there is a structural risk.

These cracks typically result from one or more of the following;
1. Soil settlement beneath the footing resulting in downward movement of the footing, and shifting is common to most newly constructed homes.

2. Alteration of the local water table whenever a new home is built. Specifically, the soil beneath the home dries; the resultant soil shrinkage causes minor settlement of the footing which can result in hairline cracking in the foundation walls.

3. A new home, without of furniture and effects, does not impose a significant load on the foundation. Once all of your furniture and appliances are moved in, the weight borne by the foundation, and the structure in general, increases and causes some flexing (or movement) of structural members throughout the building. This increased load can cause hairline cracks in the foundation.

4. Drying shrinkage. While poured concrete is dries and hardens, it will shrink. The major factor influencing drying shrinkage is the total water content of the concrete. As the water content in poured concrete increases, the amount of shrinkage increases. Significant increases in the sand content and significant reductions in the size of the coarse aggregate used in poured concrete increase shrinkage because total water content is increased and smaller size coarse aggregate provide less internal resistance to shrinkage.

5. Thermal expansion and contraction of concrete. Concrete poured during high daytime temperatures will contract as it cools during the night, this can be sufficient enough to cause cracking if the concrete is restrained.

6. Restraint; The restriction of free movement of fresh or hardened concrete subsequent to the completion of placing (pouring of concrete) in formwork or within an otherwise confined space; restraint can be internal or external and may act in one or more directions.

7. Subgrade settlement or movement. The dropping of soil or the footing due to their mass, the loads imposed on them, or shrinkage or displacement of the underlying support.

Most foundation cracks are minor and insignificant; they are common to both poured concrete and block foundations. Structural cracks (horizontal) in residential foundations are usually the result of settlement and/or horizontal loading. They can be the result of hydrostatic pressure or the use of heavy equipment next to the foundation. The possible implication of cracks in your foundation is moisture penetration, moisture that can ruin finished wall coverings, floor coverings and furniture.

Water will leak through a foundation crack if there is enough hydrostatic pressure to force water through the crack. If a waterproofing system was installed during construction, the basement may not leak even if there is a large crack. Keep in mind that waterproofing is not the same as damp-proofing. Installing an exterior waterproofing system after the wall has been backfilled can be cost prohibitive. The best solution is the use of an epoxy injection system. It will adhere to the side of the cracks and actually may strengthen the wall. These systems can be DIY but is it highly recommended that they be applied by a professional.

If you take anything away from this article...take this. All foundations crack, your foundation, my foundation and most of these cracks are insignificant and have no structural implications. If you do have a concern about the size and type of crack call a professional to evaluate.

Foundation Wall Cracks, Cause, Effect and Solution
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A Home Inspection Services home inspection will give you a clear, unbiased evaluation of your home's condition, answer any questions you may have, and help give you the peace of mind that you are making the right purchasing decision.

Rick Deckert
Home Inspection Services
http://www.homeinspectorservices.net

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Tuesday, November 6, 2012

Building Beach Homes - Different Types and Components of Foundations

In examining the different types of foundations the first that we review is the raft foundations. A raft foundation is basically a large concrete slab designed to cover the whole area or part of the site. It is used on soft or weak natural soil or made-up ground (fill) or ground liable to subsidence as in mining areas, or where column are closely spaced that their bases may be to close, touch or overlap, for example, where seventy-five per cent of the site may be covered. Though a raft foundation is used for weak soil it cannot be used for Jamaica beach homes that require a much more sturdy foundation.

Types of Raft
Solid raft consists of a solid two-way reinforced concrete slab. Light rafts are used for small load bearing type buildings or light framed structures with low bearing pressures. For heavier and larger building thicker and deeper raft are used.

Beam and slab raft consist of slab bearing directly on the ground with bean ribs project above it. It is useful where loads or rigidity needs require a slab thicker than three hundred millimeters. This was experimented on for some beachfront property for sale in Jamaica, but the concept was quickly abandoned.

Building Beach Homes - Different Types and Components of Foundations

Cellular Raft consists of top and bottom slabs (rafts) with edge and intermediate beams in both directions forming hollow cells. This is useful where raft stresses are high and deep beams (nine hundred millimeters) are necessary to provide the greater rigidity required.
Sometimes the depth may be full basement storey or storeys using reinforced concrete cross-walls, monolithic, with floors and rafts.

Pile Foundations
Pile foundations are those which transmit loads to deeper levels by means of long column bedded in the soil They are suitable on soils of low bearing capacity, where the water table level is high, where there is the presence of shrinkable clays or other materials near the surface which is liable to movement. This is what is used for most beachfront properties for sale in Jamaica.

Types of piles
Friction piles transmit their load to the surrounding soil by means of friction between the pile surfaces and the soil, that is, the piles are supported by friction between soil and pile. End bearing piles carry their loads through weak strata down to a bearing in firm strata below.

Short-Bored piles are relatively short length piles used in firm shrinkable clay as a means of pitching the foundation below the zone of moisture movement. They are usually large in diameter (three hundred millimeters) relative to their short lengths so no steel reinforcement is normally necessary and they are stiff.

Factors which determine Width and Depth of Foundations
The width and depth of foundation varies with the:
o Character of the subsoil
o Weight of the wall and the load which it carries
o Nature and strength of the materials to be used in the design of the foundations; and
o Likely behavior under load of the soils on which the foundation rest

Concrete in Foundations
The strength of concrete is influenced by a number of factors:
1. Proportion and type of cement
2. Type, proportions, grading and quality of aggregates
3. Water content
4. Method of accuracy of batching, mixing, transporting, placing, compacting and curing concrete.

The majority of concrete foundations contain ordinary cement, although this may be varied special circumstances. The customary standard mix is 1:2:4.

Foundation Selection Factors
o Soil conditions
o Type of structure
o Structural load economics of foundation types
o Time available for construction
o Life of building
o Future use of building

Settlement
Settlement is the vertical downward movement of a foundation on a compressible soil.

Causes of settlement
1. Consolidation of soil particles
2. A reduction in the moisture content of certain soils which shrinks on drying out
3. The general movement of the earth due to various causes
4. Overloading the soil

The foundation is the most fundamental aspect of Jamaica beach homes as no matter how good a design is, it will not hold up if the foundation is weak.

Building Beach Homes - Different Types and Components of Foundations
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Colin Scott is a real estate marketing expert. For more great tips on Jamaica beach homes and beachfront property for sale in Jamaica visit any one of the links in this Author Bio.

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